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Most people arrive in Le Puy-en-Velay by train. 

And if you're sitting on the right side, you might catch a glimpse of what makes this place so unique: up there, the great statue of Our Lady and her child watching over the town, and a little further on, a church perched on top of a needle-like volcanic rock. 

It's far from ordinary!

Here, stone born of earth stands tall against the sky, inviting you to lift your eyes, steady your heart, and trust in the wide unknown waiting beyond the next horizon.

 

You put on your pack, step off the train and start walking down towards the old town. 

You drop your bag off at the gîte, and almost immediately head out to explore. 

At the top of Mont Anis, the cathedral awaits you — dark, majestic. 

A Black Madonna is enshrined there, guardian of countless departures. 

You'll also find the mysterious Pierre des Fièvres — the Fever Stone — and, more secret still, a grate set into the floor that will open tomorrow morning after the 7 a.m. mass. Like a birth canal, it lets pilgrims slip away onto the path — a symbolic passage into the unknown.

 

For centuries, kings, pilgrims, dreamers and seekers have gathered here to receive the pilgrim's blessing before setting out. 

Because to walk towards Santiago from Le Puy is to say yes: yes to the unexpected, yes to the effort, yes to the encounter. 

Here, every step is born in a landscape of stone and fire, on volcanic ground that already whispers the promise of the horizon.

 

Here in Le Puy, everything breathes momentum. The roofs of red tiles, the warm-coloured façades, the cobbled lanes where the hum of the Saturday market already echoes… 

 

Le Puy-en-Velay isn't just beautiful — it's alive.

 

Le Puy-en-Velay is far more than just a starting point. It's a threshold, a promise, a spark. 

A perfect place to start your pilgrimage.

Breathe. Look up. Listen to the town. 

 

Tomorrow morning, the grate will open beneath your feet — and the Way will take care of the rest.

 

 

Before you set off on your pilgrimage, take time to discover the treasures of Le Puy-en-Velay.

 

Things to Do in Le Puy

Le Puy-en-Velay is a peaceful, historic town — the perfect place to slow down and ease into your Camino journey. Unlike Paris or Lyon, there’s no rush here — just beauty, history, and space to breathe. We highly recommend spending at least two nights to recover from jet lag and give yourself a full day to explore its monuments, museums, and winding streets.

 

Must-Sees

• Saint Michel d’Aiguilhe — AA tiny 10th-century chapel balanced on a volcanic plug. Climb 268 steps for sweeping views over the town and valley.

• Statue of Notre-Dame de France — TA 22 m iron Virgin Mary, cast from Crimean War cannons. She stands high above the town — the panorama is worth it.

• The Cathedral — A UNESCO World Heritage Site blending Romanesque, Byzantine, and Arabic styles. Visit the Black Madonna, touch the “Fever Stone,” and attend the 7 AM pilgrim’s mass for a special blessing before descending the famous “womb staircase.”

 

Watch our video about Places to see in Le Puy:

 

Don’t Miss

• Place du Plot Market — The Place du Plot is one of the town’s most charming squares, framed by pastel façades, colorful shutters, and old stone houses. On market day, it bustles with stalls, bright awnings, fresh produce, and lively chatter around the old stone fountain. Don’t miss trying Artison cheese — a soft, creamy local cow’s cheese with a delicate, tangy flavor.

 

• Puy de Lumières — From dusk until midnight (early July to mid-September), nine sites across town are transformed with stunning light shows and projections. More info here.

 

• Lace-making history of Le Puy-en-Velay

    Once a thriving centre for bobbin lace, Le Puy still has shops where you can buy delicate handmade lace — tablecloths, napkins, clothing — and     watch artisans working with traditional bobbins and lace pillows.

 

Practical Must-Dos

• Get your Credencial (Pilgrim Passport)

  • Where: Cathedral shop

  • Hours:

    • Apr, May, Jun, Sep: 10:30–12:30 & 14:30–18:30

    • Jul, Aug: 10:00–18:00

    • Mar, Oct: 10:00–12:00 & 15:00–17:00

• Meet Other Pilgrims — Every afternoon (1st Apr–15th Oct) from 17:30–19:30, Les Amis de St Jacques (Friends of St Jacques) host a warm gathering at the Salon des Jacquets (2 Rue de la Manécanterie). Share a glass of wine, trade tips, and find walking companions!

    You8 can also just stop in the afternoon at the Café des Pèlerins. 

 

• Gear Up — For any last-minute hiking supplies, stop by La Boutique du Pèlerin (12–14 Rue St Jacques) or the Decathlon nearby.

 

• Stay Connected — Pick up a SIM card at the Orange boutique (closed Sundays and Monday mornings).

 

• Trail Essentials — Stock up on snacks (bread, cheese, nuts, saucisson), grab an Opinel pocket knife (practical and traditional), and pick up a small block of Savon de Marseille for laundry and skin care.

 

• Cash — Make sure you always have about 300 euros on hand for the days ahead. (List of ATMs in Rob’s guide)

 

Extra Tips

• The Tourist Office on Place du Clauzel is a great place to pick up maps, brochures, and advice. They really go the extra mile to help you with practical matters before you set off on your Camino.

 

 

Getting to and from Le Puy

 

• By Train

 

Watch our video: 

 

From Paris Gare De Lyon 

 

There are several options.

The easiest is to take a train to St-Étienne Châteaucreux.

And then from Saint-Étienne a regional train to Le Puy-En-Velay

About 4:35 h 

The connection in St Etienne is from one side of the platform to the other and super easy.

 

 

From Lyon

 

Lyon Airport, 

take the shuttle to Lyon Part-Dieu

Then a train from Lyon-Part Dieu to St-Etienne.

The easiest is to take a train to St-Étienne Châteaucreux.

And then from Saint-Étienne a regional train to Le Puy-En-Velay

 

The connection in St Etienne is from one side of the platform to the other and super easy.

 

From Lyon Part-Dieu train station:

Take a train to St-Étienne Châteaucreux.

And then from Saint-Étienne a regional train to Le Puy-En-Velay

 

The connection in St Etienne is from one side of the platform to the other and super easy.

 

From Le Puy to the stops along the Way

 

Compostel’Bus — A bus that takes pilgrims from Le Puy to Conques, stopping at villages along the Camino. It goes out in the morning and comes back in the afternoon.

 

La Malle Postale — A service that carries your backpack or luggage from one stop to the next on the Camino, so you can walk with just a daypack. You can also ride with them yourself if you need a lift to your next stop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Accommodation in Le Puy-en-Velay 

 

To book your accommodation in Le Puy, we strongly recommend  Rob’s Guide — Your Camino Companion

 

What started out 12 years ago as a simple list of gîtes has now become a “real guidebook’ answering all the needs and questions of people just like you;. Rob’s Guide — Walking the Via Podiensis Made Simple is so much more: it’s a complete resource designed to answer the questions every pilgrim has about the Chemin — stages, terrain, distances, where to stay, where to eat, and what services you’ll find in each community.

 

Inside you’ll find:

• 🗺️ Detailed daily maps showing your route ahead

• ⛰️ Elevation profiles to help you prepare for climbs and descents

• 🔎 Overview blocks with at-a-glance details:

  • Main towns and villages

  • Distances between stops

  • Available services (food, ATMs, pharmacies, Office de Tourisme)

  • Number of gîtes in each place

  • Navigation help for tricky town exits

 

🏡 Accommodation Focus: The Gîte Experience

Every stage includes clear “gîte blocks” with:

• Complete, up-to-date listings of all gîtes in each community

• Live Links to official websites

• Practical details — prices, amenities, and contacts, constantly updatred

• Green phone numbers so you know which hosts use WhatsApp

 

• ​

• Easy to read on your computer or carry on your phone

• Full of tips to help you focus on what matters: your journey and the people you meet along the way.

 

👉 [Check out our video] on how to get the most out of Rob’s Guide — and make your Camino simpler, lighter, and richer in every way.

 

Rob’s guide tailored for and tested by pilgrims for over 12 years!

 

Reviews: 

 

 

Why stay in a gîte?
Gîtes are a real part of the Camino spirit — they’re more than a bed for the night. Many feel like a home away from home, with proper beds (rarely bunks!), clean bedding, and space to rest. You share stories, meals, and laughs with other pilgrims — and many gîtes now have private rooms too, for those who prefer a bit more quiet after a long day’s walk.

 

When I first walked in 2015, I was so nervous about staying in a dorm that I booked a hotel for my first night — the Ibis Budget opposite the station. It felt a bit lonely. But after meeting other walkers at the pilgrim gathering by the Cathedral, I realised they were just like me: people on an adventure, a pilgrimage, even if none of us really knew what that meant yet. So be bold — try the gîte experience! Not all gîtes are perfect, but so many are warm, welcoming, and know exactly what a tired pilgrim needs — something you’ll never find in a hotel.

 

📌 Tip: There are different kinds of gîtes — parochial, communal, and private. Check out my blog post where I explain them all, plus how to How to book accommodation in French by text or email. I’ve also ncluded simple sample phrases and MP3s so you can hear and repeat them with confidence!

 

 

 

 

Look inside our guide!: Download the first part.

 

 

 

Meet Robert and Kate — two souls whose lives were forever transformed by the ancient Via Podiensis,

 

When Paths Cross in Unexpected Ways

In 2011, Robert answered an inner calling he couldn't ignore. Setting out alone from Le Puy-en-Velay, he walked the full 1,500 kilometers to Santiago and beyond to Finisterre. At the time, Kate was living her own life in another country, unaware that a stranger's footsteps were already weaving the thread that would one day connect them.

Three years later, in September 2014, Kate experienced what she can only describe as a moment of perfect clarity. She woke with an insistent, undeniable knowing: walk a Camino. Searching for guidance online, she discovered Robert's Facebook community dedicated to the Le Puy route. Something about his approach to the pilgrimage resonated deeply with her.

In 2015, Kate took her first steps on the Via Podiensis — the same ancient stones Robert had walked four years earlier. She had no idea that this path would become far more than a personal journey of transformation. It was, quite literally, her path to love.

 

Where Ancient Roads Lead to New Beginnings

The Camino works in mysterious ways. In 2016, Robert and Kate walked their first pilgrimage together — With each step, their connection deepened, nurtured by the simple rhythms of walking, the vulnerability that comes with stripping life down to its essentials, and the profound trust the Camino teaches.

Many more pilgrimages followed. Each journey strengthened not only their bond with each other but their understanding of what they call the "Camino Way of Life" — living with radical simplicity, deep trust, and an open heart. In 2017 they got married.

 

Living the Camino Way of Life

People often tell them they're lucky — lucky to have found freedom, adventure, and each other later in life. But Robert and Kate know better. It wasn't luck that brought them together; it was the courage to listen to that quiet inner voice and take the first step into the unknown.

Today, they try to embody the Camino's teachings in their daily lives. Through their stories, gentle wisdom, and the vibrant community they've nurtured, they hope to kindle that same spark in others — those who feel a quiet longing for something deeper, whether that means lacing up boots for the Via Podiensis or simply choosing to live more courageously and authentically at home.

 

You'll find them where their story began — in the Facebook community dedicated to the Via Podiensis — ready to welcome each new pilgrim with the same open-hearted spirit the Camino taught them. Because they know that every great journey, whether measured in kilometers or moments of courage, begins with a single step.

The path is waiting. The question is: are you ready to listen to what's calling you?